TL;DR: Less famous than vitamin C, gentler than hydroquinone, and one of the few quiet brighteners with decent evidence behind it.
Quick answer
Licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) contains glabridin and licochalcone A, two compounds that interfere with tyrosinase (the enzyme that makes melanin) and calm inflammation on the way through. Useful range is 0.5–2% in a well-formulated product. Expect modest brightening over 8–12 weeks. It’s a particularly good fit for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and for sensitive skin that doesn’t get along with stronger brighteners. Slower than hydroquinone or strong vitamin C, but you can use it for years without the side-effect profile that comes with those.
What’s actually in licorice root
A handful of compounds do the work. Glabridin is the most studied and the one most often namechecked. It blocks tyrosinase in a way that’s similar to how vitamin C and hydroquinone do. Licochalcone A is anti-inflammatory and supports the brightening side. Liquiritin contributes mild antioxidant activity. Glycyrrhizin is the soothing piece. Glabrene adds a touch more brightening.
The point isn’t that any single compound is a knockout. It’s that they stack: a few mild pigment levers plus an anti-inflammatory layer, working toward the same goal at the same time.
What licorice actually does on skin
It brightens by slowing melanin production via tyrosinase inhibition. The effect is real and shows up in studies, sitting somewhere around mild vitamin C in clinical comparisons. It quiets inflammation, which is why it’s useful for rosacea-prone, reactive, and acne-prone skin. There’s modest free-radical scavenging. It calms irritation generally, and there’s some mild activity against acne bacteria.
When licorice is the right pick
For PIH from acne, it’s well-tolerated and works. For mild melasma, it’s a reasonable supporting player in a multi-ingredient plan. It’s the go-to brightener for sensitive skin that can’t tolerate vitamin C L-ascorbic acid. It’s a sensible pregnancy-era option for hormonal pigmentation (run it by your OB, but topical licorice at skincare concentrations is generally considered safe). And for skin of color with stubborn PIH, it tends to be lower-irritation than glycolic acid, which matters for not making things worse.
How to use it
Either morning or night — it’s stable in light. You’ll mostly find it in serums and essences, occasionally in toners and moisturizers. Apply after cleansing, before stronger actives or moisturizer. Daily.
It pairs well with vitamin C (the mechanisms stack), niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and retinoids. No major antagonism to worry about. Effective concentration is around 0.5–2%. Pushing higher doesn’t proportionally improve the result.
Realistic timelines
Initial soothing shows up within days. Tone evening at four to eight weeks. PIH fading at eight to sixteen. Visible movement on mild melasma after twelve-plus weeks, and only if you’re running a real protocol around it (SPF, other actives). Comparable to azelaic acid in pace.
Where to find it on a label
If it’s listed in the top five ingredients, it’s doing real work. That tends to show up in K-beauty brightening serums, sensitive-skin brightening products, and some lines designed for skin of color (Specific Beauty is one).
Lower on the INCI, it’s more of a supporting note in anti-aging products and soothing creams. The names to recognize: Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract, or specific compounds called out directly (Glabridin, Licochalcone A, Glycyrrhizin).
How it stacks against other brighteners
Versus hydroquinone, licorice is gentler, slower, and safe to use long-term. Hydroquinone is faster and stronger but comes with restrictions and a paradoxical-darkening risk over time.
Versus vitamin C (LAA), vitamin C is faster and more potent. Licorice trades speed for tolerance and adds an anti-inflammatory layer vitamin C doesn’t.
Versus niacinamide, the mechanisms are different — niacinamide blocks melanin transfer, licorice blocks production. They combine well.
Versus tranexamic acid, tranexamic is the heavier lever for stubborn melasma. Licorice is the daily-driver gentle one.
What a full brightening routine looks like
If you want serious brightening and licorice is part of the stack:
Morning: vitamin C, then niacinamide, then licorice, then moisturizer, then SPF.
Night: a retinoid or azelaic acid, then licorice, then moisturizer.
Single-ingredient brightening underperforms a thoughtful stack. Licorice belongs in the stack, not in isolation.
Where people get it wrong
Skipping licorice because it sounds “weaker.” It’s a different profile; for sensitive skin it’s the option that actually finishes the course. Buying a product where licorice is the last ingredient on the label, then wondering why nothing’s happening. Expecting licorice alone to fix real melasma. And — the most common one — running any brightener without daily SPF, which makes the whole exercise circular.
Pregnancy notes
Topical licorice at skincare concentrations is generally considered safe in pregnancy. Run it past your OB. (Oral licorice in significant amounts during pregnancy is a different conversation, and one worth taking seriously.) Pregnancy is also when a lot of readers run into hormonal pigmentation for the first time, and licorice plus SPF is a reasonable, gentle place to start.
Tolerance
Licorice is one of the better-tolerated brighteners. Low irritation, fine for sensitive skin, pregnancy-friendly (with the usual confirmation), compatible with most actives. Patch test, as always.
FAQ
Will licorice lighten my skin overall? No. It targets overproduction in pigmented spots and gives a slight overall brightening effect. It’s not a skin-lightening drug.
Is it safe long-term? Yes. Unlike hydroquinone, there’s no risk of paradoxical darkening with extended use.
Can I use it with vitamin C? Yes, they pair well. Different mechanisms, additive effect.
Does it interact with retinoids? No major antagonism. They’re frequently combined.
Is there a decent budget option? The Inkey List has affordable licorice formulations. K-beauty essences often include it as a supporting ingredient.
Sources
Yokota T et al. The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis. Pigment Cell Research, 1998. Yang B, Yang K. Mechanism of UV-induced skin pigmentation suppression by topically applied licorice. Phytomedicine, 2018.
Keep reading
Keep reading
Related: Kojic acid: the fermented brightener with a sensitisation problem, and Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8): the Botox alternative claim and what the actual data says.
References
- Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010. PubMed.
- Cestari TF, Dantas LP, Boza JC. Acquired hyperpigmentations. An Bras Dermatol. 2014. PubMed.
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